What’s glycation and how to fight it?
Sugar: Public Health Enemy Number One. Bad for our waistline, our glucose levels, our teeth…we’re all aware of the effects that sugar can have on our health. But how many times have you treated yourself to something sweet and thought about how it might affect your skin? No, we’re not talking pimples – sugar is, in fact, a key player in the skin’s ageing process, and this is where our protagonist glycation comes in.
What does Glycation look like?
Glycation presents in the skin as cross-hatched lines and wrinkles. If you think of ‘normal’ wrinkles they are linear and generally parallel to each other in areas of facial movement. Lines created by Glycation cross over each other and are often seen over the cheeks and around the chin.
Glycation is a process that is caused by the presence of excess glucose in skin fibres. This excess triggers an internal reaction in which sugar molecules adhere to the collagen and elastin proteins, which normally help keep skin firm and supple.
Three ways sugar affects ageing and causes Glycation
1. Damages Collagen & Elastin
The proteins that are most vulnerable to damage are those that serve as the building blocks for your skin: Collagen and elastin. These proteins keep skin firm and elastic and are responsible for the plump and bouncy characteristics of a healthy and youthful complexion. AGEs make your collagen and elastin stiff, dry and brittle, zapping them of strength and spring. The effects are seen on your complexion in the form of fine lines, sagging and wrinkles.
2. Affects The Type Of Collagen You Have
A high-sugar diet also affects the type of collagen you have. Your skin contains three primary types of collagen (aptly named Type I, II and III). The stability and resilience of collagen build with each stage: Type I is the weakest and Type III the strongest. Glycation degrades Type III collagen into Type I, thereby diminishing your skin’s structural strength and stability.
3. Deactivates Natural Antioxidant Enzymes
In addition to damaging your skin’s essential proteins, AGEs deactivate your body’s natural antioxidant enzymes. Without protection from antioxidants, your skin is more vulnerable to the free radical damage caused by environmental assailants like pollution, blue light and UV rays. Left to roam (and bind to your skin’s structural proteins), free radicals trigger oxidative stress that contributes to premature ageing of your skin.
Signs That Sugar Is Aging Your Skin
The visible effects of glycation tend to emerge for women around age 35. By this time, the accumulation of oxidative damage, hormonal changes and AGE development compound. Your skin, unable to counteract the oxidative damage done with sufficient collagen and elastin synthesis, begins to show wear and tear. Here are the tell-tale signs on your face that sugar is the culprit ageing your skin:
The surface of your skin looks hard and shiny.
Deep, crosshatch lines appear along your upper lip.
Discolouration and hyperpigmentation mark your skin.
Deep crevices appear, especially around the laugh line area.
The skin around your jowl area is sagging.
How can we fight glycation before it shows up?
The good news is that you're never too late to prevent the visible signs of ageing. Now that you know how sugar can damage your skin, here’s how you can combat the destruction and look your best:
1. Cut Back On Sugar
It can be difficult to completely eliminate sugar from your diet, but there are a few ways to cut back. One way is to keep added sugar to no more than 10% of your daily calorie intake and steering clear of “hidden sugars” like barley malt, fruit juice concentrate and maple syrup. The worst of the bunch: High fructose corn syrup. This type of sugar, found in soft drinks, sweetened fruit drinks and many packaged foods, produces the most AGEs.
2. Increase Water Intake
Drinking water doesn’t directly impact your skin’s hydration but does help your body to carry out the key functions that support healthy skin more effectively. Water is essential to the production of collagen and elastin, and keeping your body hydrated can improve its ability to counteract the ageing effects of glycation. Drink plenty of water and incorporate water-rich foods like cucumber, tomatoes and watermelon into your diet to maintain hydration.
3. Supplement Your Diet
A number of published studies cite Vitamins B1 and B6 as AGE inhibitors. Vitamin B1 (thiamin) can be found in green peas, sesame seeds and spinach, and has powerful antioxidant properties that help in the fight against free radicals. Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine), which is essential for skin development and maintenance, can be found in chickpeas, pinto beans and sunflower seeds.
4. Load Up On Antioxidants
Antioxidants neutralize and protect the body from the damaging effects of free radicals. These naturally occurring vitamins and minerals throw a wrench in glycation by preventing sugar from attaching to proteins. Your body produces antioxidants naturally, but you can also find them in everyday foods like berries, leafy greens and coffee. You can even find them in your skincare. Look for products that contain Vitamins C and E which help collagen and elastin hold their shape and maintain their strength for your skin.
5. Sleep
One of our best beauty secrets is to get enough sleep. While you’re sleeping, your skin goes into overdrive, regenerating and repairing any damage done during the day. Studies show that lack of sleep contributes to more fine lines and wrinkles, uneven skin tone and less elasticity. But, it comes down to more than the quantity of sleep; just as important is quality. Your body does the most work during deep sleep to counteract the ageing effects of sugar and other stressors.